Introduction

Stop me if you've heard this one before: If tomatoes are a technically a fruit, then why don't they go in a fruit salad?

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The scientific answer is that tomatoes are indeed a fruit, and also a vegetable. Fruits are defined as a seed-bearing structure produced by a flowering plant. So, yep - tomatoes qualify as a fruit! However, the definition of vegetables is much more open to interpretation, and few would deny that in culinary terms, tomatoes should be classed as a vegetable.

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Are you planning to grow your own tomatoes?  We would highly recommend it! One of the first questions to ask is whether you want a determinate or indeterminate variety.  On our farm, most tomato plants for sale are indeterminate varieties - what this means is that the plant's vine will keep growing until it reaches the end of its life cycle. For the home gardener, it is thus important to plan how you're going to train the vines (decide where they will grow) and prune (keep the plant healthy and productive). If you decide on a determinate variety instead (Ace 55 or Sunrise Sauce), you don't have to pay as much attention to the training and pruning, because the bush produced will be a fixed and predictable size.

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We made two short videos to help explain the most important concepts and skills to practice. We highly recommend watching them in order to best care for your tomato plants.

Detailed Care Instructions

Indeterminate varieties should be staked, trellised, or caged, and pruned for best results; fruit ripens over an extended period.

CULTURE: Grow tomatoes in rich, slightly acidic soil. If you use fertilizer, pay close attention to the chemistry, because too much nitrogen can cause rot.

TRANSPLANTING: Don't start too early—leggy, root-bound, or flowering transplants can cause stunting and reduce early production. For earliest crop, plant under row cover around last frost date. Avoid exposing unprotected plants to consecutive nightly temperatures below 45°F (7°C).

In rows 4–6' apart, space determinates 12–24" and indeterminates 24–36". Plant deeply to encourage adventitious rooting. Water seedlings with a high-phosphate fertilizer solution at planting to help boost early yields.

TRELLISING: Basket-weave by pounding 5–6' stakes every 2–3 plants, using heavier t-posts intermittently and at ends of beds. For tall indeterminates, consider short extensions or pruning once they outgrow a manageable size for easy harvest.

PRUNING: Indeterminates likely benefit by removing all suckers under the first strong branch directly below the first flower cluster. The lower bottom suckers often miss trellis supports, set fruit closer to soil, take energy from upper parts, and encourage spread of disease from soil. If needed later in season, consider thinning out leaves to increase airflow or topping plants to help finish ripening last fruits.

DISEASES & INSECT PESTS: Learn your common pests and options for control, including resistant cultivars and pesticides. Avoid wet leaves and handling when wet or using tobacco products.  Don't allow plant debris to accumulate near the plants.

HARVEST: Fruits ripen gradually from the blossom end to shoulders and from the base of clusters to the tips. Harvest softer fruit unstacked into shallow, padded trays. Fully ripe fruit should be eaten immediately. Do not refrigerate. Any fruit breaking color will still ripen post-harvest. Calyx can be removed or kept to prove freshness. If staking larger fruit with calyx on, consider trimming below shoulders when harvesting.

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Adapted from:  Johnny's Selected Seeds

Our Varieties